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5 May 2025
After about 1,000 miles of riding, it’s time to check on the condition of the cassette on your bike. The amount of wear will depend on how often you ride and the type of terrain you tackle – mountain biking versus road biking, for instance. If the teeth of your most-used cogs look more like sharp points than rounded edges, it’s likely time to replace the cassette.
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While it’s possible to replace individual cogs, replacing the entire cassette is often more efficient and effective. If unsure, consult a local bike mechanic for guidance on what’s best for your bike.
To replace the cassette, you’ll need a freehub, the most common type on modern bikes. To check your hub type, remove the rear wheel from your bike and inspect the smallest cog. If you see a lockring outside the smallest cog (marked with “lock”), your bike has a cassette freehub.
Start by removing the rear wheel from your bike. If your bike has a quick-release skewer, remove it as well. If you’re working with a thru-axle, you must remove that.
Insert the cassette lockring remover into the cassette, align it properly, and turn it until it sits in place. Most lockring removers only fit one way. If you don’t have a standard lockring remover, ask your local bike shop for one that will fit your cassette.
For added stability, remove the springs from the quick-release skewer and reinsert the skewer through the wheel and lockring remover. Tighten the skewer to hold everything in place.
Grab your chain whip and drape it over one of the larger cogs on the cassette. Hold the handle of the chain whip with your left hand. Use the adjustable crescent wrench in your right hand to apply leverage on the lockring remover. The chain whip will keep the cassette from spinning while you unscrew the lockring.
Once the lockring is loosened, remove both the chain whip and the wrench. You can continue unscrewing the lockring by hand or with the crescent wrench until it is entirely detached.
Once the lockring is off, carefully slide the cassette off the freehub. Remove the cassette gently to avoid damage if you reuse any parts (such as the cogs or spacers).
Slide your new cassette onto the freehub. Ensure the cassette lines up with the freehub body, as it will only go on one way. The grooves in the cassette should match the ridges on the freehub.
If your cassette requires spacers (usually included with the new cassette), place them between each cog. Also, ensure that the smallest cog is slightly raised from the freehub body; if not, check for missing spacers.
Once your cassette is aligned correctly and assembled, reattach the lockring using the lockring remover tool. Use your crescent wrench to tighten the lockring, but avoid over-tightening. If you have a torque wrench, you can use it to tighten the lockring to the manufacturer’s specified torque. If not, having your local bike shop handle this final tightening for you is a good idea.
Put the quick-release skewer back into the wheel (or reinsert the thru-axle if applicable), ensuring it’s adequately tightened. Then, reinstall the wheel on your bike.
Before heading out for your next ride, shift through the gears to ensure everything works smoothly. This helps to ensure the cassette is securely in place and that your shifting is precise.
To maintain your bike, clean your cassette thoroughly at least twice yearly. Be careful when cleaning around the hub and avoid hosing it down or using solvents that could dissolve the grease in the bearings.
It’s also good to replace the chain when changing the cassette, as chains typically wear out faster than cassettes. Ensure your cassette and chain are compatible (e.g., a 9-speed cassette needs a 9-speed chain).
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A well-maintained chain will help prevent premature wear on the cassette. If you live in a sandy or wet area, be proactive in replacing your chain to extend the life of your cassette.
Following these steps will ensure your mountain bike’s cassette is in great shape and ready for your next adventure!
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